Visiting Machu Picchu for the First Time

Machu Picchu is on almost everyone’s bucket list, but the ancient Incan Ruins can seem distant or difficult to visit. If you have the time, the money, and don’t mind the daily hiking requirements, the Inca trail is an amazing experience.  We did the alternate: a flight, a taxi, a train, and a whole bunch of stairs. Check out our plan below on how to visit on a budget and still have an amazing experience.

So how do I get to Machu Picchu?

Step 1 – Deciding When to Go

The first and most important step is deciding when you are going to go to Machu Picchu. If you are coming from the USA, remember Peru is in the opposite hemisphere therefore the opposite season. The wet summer season (when you do not want to visit) runs from late November to March. The dry winter season runs from April to early November.

We went in June and had no issues with rain or bad weather. The temperatures got down to around 30 degrees Fahrenheit in the evening, but as high as 80 degrees at Machu Picchu. So plan for cold nights and warm days if you go in June or July.

You also need to decide how long you want to visit Machu Picchu. You only need one day for the actual Machu Picchu site, but you may want to hike the other optional areas. We did Machu Picchu on the first day and then booked the optional Wayna Picchu hike on a second day. We highly recommend buying your entrance tickets well in advance.

To visit Machu Picchu you need at a week. This assumes at least 1 day flight to Peru, 1 day in Cusco, 1 day traveling to Ollantaytambo, 1-2 days at Machu Picchu, 1 day returning to Cusco, and 1 day returning home. Once you decide when you want to go, now the fun part begins, planning your trip!

Step 2 – Getting to Cusco

For starters, you need to get to Peru. A majority of major airlines fly to Lima and many do so cheaply. Some airlines will fly you to Cusco, but expect them to use a partner airline to get you from Peru to Cusco. It is usually cheaper to fly to Lima and get a separate flight to Cusco. We flew into Lima, spent the night in a cheap hotel and then flew to Cusco the next morning.

If you plan to stay in Lima for a night, book the hotel at the airport in advance, as it does book up early. Unfortunately, we were not able to book the airport hotel and were forced to taxi to a hotel and back.

When choosing a connecting flight from Lima to Cusco, we recommend LATAM. LATAM is the most on-time from the usual options, Avianca, LATAM, Star Peru… Make sure to give yourselves a few hours between arriving in Lima and flying to Cusco, customs is a slow process. You do NOT need a visa if coming from the United States.

The flight to Cusco is very short, about 1.5 hours and about $80-150 depending on when you go.

Step 3 – Cusco and Acclimating to the Altitude

Now you have made it to Cusco! Cusco is part of the Sacred Valley, which includes a large area around Cusco and Machu Picchu. There are nearly a dozen sites in the Sacred Valley that you can visit or check out while you are in Cusco, in addition to Machu Picchu.

Once you arrive in Cusco, you will start to feel the affects of the high altitude. The people of Peru drink coca tea to counter the high altitude, but be aware drinking coca tea may test positive for cocaine on a drug test as long as it is in your system. We recommend you bring over the counter altitude sickness meds to help if needed. Neither of us got sick, however we did find ourselves out of breath after a short walk or trouble sleeping in the evenings.

A lot of people recommended that we spend a night in Cusco to adjust to the altitude as well. We skipped this, since we had a night in Lima before, but it would have been nice to have an extra day to explore the Cusco area. Cusco is a smaller city, but the central square has some beautiful buildings and a lot of restaurants. Give yourself at least a few hours to enjoy the square.

Step 4 – Getting to Ollantaytambo

After you have had your fill of Cusco, its time to head to the next stop, Ollantaytambo (pronounced O-yen-tay-tom-bo). There are a few ways to get to Ollantaytambo. We highly recommend taking the private taxi, but below the options are broken out for you to decide.

• Bus or Collectivos – This is by far the cheapest option, but the bus picks up and drops off people all the way to Ollantaytambo, so expect to stop a lot. Costs run about $10-12 USD and takes around 2-3 hours, but again this is not recommended for first time tourists. Cash only.
• Regular Taxi – You can grab a taxi from anywhere in the city, the airport, or your hotel/hostel. Taxis from Cusco to Ollantaytambo run about $25-30 USD, and take about 1.5 to 2 hours. Cash only.
• Private Taxi – This is what we recommend you do. The private taxi will take you and your co-travelers anywhere you’d like to go in the sacred valley and will keep all of your things safe in the taxi while you explore. Typically these cost $50-100 USD and can be negotiated. Most hotels will help you find a private taxi, or you can ask for one at the Cusco airport. Cash only.
• Tour Bus – There are a few companies that do a tour bus option from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. The tour buses have pre-selected stops, some of which may not be on your list to check out. You can leave your luggage on the bus when checking out sites, so this is a good option if you want to see some sites but don’t really care which ones. Pre-pay before arriving.
• Train – There is an option to train from Poroy (small city outside of Cusco) to Ollantaytambo then to Aguas Calientes. You would need to taxi to Poroy which is about 20 minutes away. Train tickets can be purchased online in advance.

Sacred Valley Exploring

Like we said before, there are almost a dozen places in the Sacred Valley to stop and check out. On our trip to Ollantaytambo, we pre-picked two places, Salineras (the salt pools) and Moray (an Incan agricultural site). We spent about 45 minutes at Salineras wandering the salt pools and around 15 minutes at Moray. There will also be small stands at each location selling ponchos, hats, shirts, and anything the Peruvians can make or sell.

Most sites charge an entrance fee, usually just a few Soles (the Sol is the Peruvian dollar). They may or may not accept other currencies, and usually they do not accept credit cards, so best to have some cash on hand. Definitely research which locations you want to visit and what times they are open. Some sites do close early.

Once you finally reach Ollantaytambo, check into your hotel and then go explore the city. The city also includes its own set of ruins to check out. Ollantaytambo is a smaller city and very safe, so you shouldn’t worry about walking around after dark.

Step 5 – Train to Aguas Calientes

To get from Ollantaytambo to Cusco, you need to take the train. Trains start at $54 USD each way and vary in price based on time and type of train. The two cheaper options are the PeruRail Expedition and Vistadome trains. We rode from Ollantaytambo on the Expedition train and returned on the Vistadome train. The main difference is the windows and on-train entertainment. The Vistadome train has bigger windows and includes a cultural show while the train takes you to your destination. For those that prefer to travel in more luxurious ways, there is also a Belmond Hiram Bingham train that includes a number of amenities.

The trains also do not allow much luggage. You are allowed one item up to 11 pounds, and 62 total inches (length plus width plus depth). This is equivalent to your standard carry on bag for a flight. We did see them squeeze in some larger sized suitcases though. If you have more luggage than that you can leave your extra luggage at the hotel in Ollantaytambo. Most place will store your luggage for you for a fee.

The trains do not go fast, and take around 1.5 hours each way. The views of the Andes from the train are breathtaking and you may get lucky and see some wildlife. They do not provide food, but they do offer drinks for a fee on the Vistadome train.

Arrive at the train station at least 45 minutes prior to departure and make sure you have your train tickets ready. Once you are aboard, relax and enjoy the views.

Step 6 – Getting to Machu Picchu

The train station stops near the center of town, so almost all hotels are within walking distance from the train station. Just north of the train station is a maze of souvenir shops and stalls selling anything you may or may not want from your experience. Everything is negotiable and some venders do accept credit cards. Most prefer cash.

Depending on what time you arrive you may want to head up to Machu Picchu immediately or wait until the next day. We arrived around 1 pm, checked into our hotel and were ready to head up immediately to catch the sunset views.

There are two methods to reach the top. The bus or the stairs. To really experience the culture, we decided to take the steps for the first trip up and we bought a bus ticket for the way down. Don’t forget to bring your camera and your Machu Picchu tickets.

To use the stairs, follow the road down the river, until you reach the bridge. The bridge is about a mile down the road. After you cross the bridge, there is a small sign that points towards the “hiking trail.” You want to follow this sign. You will see the stairs ahead a few hundred feet. There is also a sign that shows the path up to Machu Picchu.

Be warned, this is not an easy hike. The stairs are steep there is a huge elevation change (1,500 feet climb up). Bring lots of water and some snacks, you will want them along the way. There are a few places to stop and take a rest along the way up. Just remember to move aside if people are coming down the trail or if they are moving faster than you up the trail. The stair trail took us a little over 2 hours to hike up.

For those that would rather bus to the top, or just need a ticket to get back down, there is a bus ticket booth near one of the bridges from the train station. Tickets must be purchased for the bus in cash. They will ask you if you want a one way ticket or a two way ticket. The ticket booth is usually open very early and very late each day. You can buy your tickets a day in advance as well.

Step 7 – Exploring Macchu Picchu

Finally, after all that work you made it. Your ticket will have an entrance time, but they are pretty lenient if you are early just be near your scheduled entrance time. There are no food or drinks available inside Machu Picchu nor are there any trash cans. So anything you bring in, you also need to take out.

We spent around 3 hours exploring the site on the first day. There are stairs everywhere and many routes through the site are designated one-ways. Grab a map of the site at the entrance to help figure your way through. The best views are from the top. If it is not a cloudy day, visiting during sunset or sunrise is worth the effort.

If you have extra time or want to explore more, check out the Wayna Picchu or Machu Picchu mountain hikes. We did the Wayna Picchu hike and definitely recommend it, however this is a strenuous hike. Only 400 people a day are permitted to hike Wayna Picchu, 200 in the early morning and 200 in the late morning. The trail is steep, narrow, and very difficult at times. The views from the trip up and from the top are amazing. For those that are scared of heights, we do not recommend this hike. You can buy tickets for Wayna Picchu or Macchu Picchu mountain at the same site as the Machu Picchu entrance tickets. The ticket for Wayna Picchu or Machu Picchu mountain also include the entrance fee to Machu Picchu ruins.

Once you have had your fill of Machu Picchu catch the bus down the mountain or take the stairs down. You can purchase bus tickets for the way down at the entrance to Machu Picchu, cash only. It is much easier going down the stairs than up them, but it can be hard on your knees and legs.

Step 8 – Relaxing in Aguas Calientes

After an exciting trip to the ruins, it is time to relax your legs and get some food. The city of Aguas Calientes has really grown over the past decade and offers a lot of wonderful restaurants to choose from. There are also a few bars and shops scattered through out the city. Enjoy dinner and explore the city before heading to bed.

There are thermal springs in the city that are open to the public, however a large number of locals, including children, frequent the springs so they tend to be busy. If you want to visit the springs, bring cash for the entrance fees and towel/shoes rental.

Step 9 – Going Home

To get back to Cusco, take the train back to Ollantaytambo. Remember to arrive at the station at least 45 minutes prior to your train to be safe. Once you arrive in Ollantaytambo, grab a taxi to take you back to Cusco. You can also hire a private taxi to check out more sites in the Sacred Valley on your trip to Cusco if you didn’t get a chance on your way to Ollantaytambo.

From Cusco catch your flight back to Lima and then back to your home. Make sure you give yourself at least 3 hours between arriving in Lima and leaving Lima to allow for delays, customs, and shopping at the airport for last minute souvenirs.

Once you get back home, show off those National Geographic quality photos of Machu Picchu to all your friends.

So How Much Does it All Cost?

Always the big question, how much is all this going to cost me? At the time of our trip, the transfer rate was 3 Soles to 1 US Dollar (roughly)…

• Flight from Austin to Lima, Peru – $550 USD round trip per person
• Hotel in Lima – $40 USD per night
  
• Flight from Lima, Peru to Cusco, Peru (LATAM) – $70 USD per person
  
• Hotel in Cusco – $80 USD per night
• Private Taxi from Cusco to Ollantaytambo with 2 Stops – $50 USD
• Hotel in Ollantaytambo – $99 USD per night
• Round Trip Train to Aguas Calientes – $160 per person
• Hotel in Aguas Calientes – $150 USD per night
• Machu Picchu Tickets – $45 USD per person
• Wayna Picchu Tickets – $59 USD per person
• Bus Trips Up and Down to Machu Picchu – $12 USD each way per person

Hotel stays were at four-star hotels and included breakfast in the rates.

We hope this guide helps you plan your trip to Machu Picchu. Please feel free to contact us with any questions or comment below.